Our European Adventure 2024: Sardinia

 Day 17:  Cagliari and Algiers

We regretfully left England, but were excited about our next stop.  Here’s a little background as to why we chose to go here:  A couple of years ago, we hosted an exchange student who was from an island in Italy called Sardinia.  Sardinia is not a place that most Americans are familiar with, but it is a beautiful island with turquoise waters.  Matilde became part of our family during her year in the US and while I was planning this trip, I quickly realized I needed to add Sardinia as a stop. We had also had the privilege of meeting her parents when they came to Arizona for her graduation, and they invited us to spend time with them if we ever made it to the island. 

Back on another airplane, we took the 2 hour flight from London and were able to reunite with Mati and her family.  We missed her so much, but we were able to pick up like we had just seen her.  Mati’s family is very kind and generous.  There is a bit of a language barrier between her parents and Stan and I, but Mati and her sister are great translators. 

On our first night in Sardinia, we had a wonderful dinner with the family.  Italians eat dinner very late, so it is very different for Stan and I, who are normally ready to call it a night when they are just starting dinner.  While her parents were in Arizona, Stan grilled for them a couple of times and Mati’s dad was very interested in learning his techniques.  It was her dad’s turn to grill for us.  He cooked a large (maybe Porterhouse) steak, and that along with her mom’s potatoes and pasta made for an amazing dinner.  I think Stan and Mati’s dad might have a little competition going as to who can grill better.  

I’m not exactly sure what cut of steak this was, but it was incredible. So some things about dinner in Italy:  -Dinner is served around 9 pm

-Wine is almost always served and there is wine with the meal and a different wine with desser

-You NEVER put steak in pasta

-Pasta is served first (her mom is an amazing cook and make the best pasta dish for this dinner) and it is not served at the same time as the meat dish.

On our long adventure, we have seen some wonderful sights and I do not regret seeing any of it, but it was more like a sight seeing trip. For the first time since we left home, we felt like we were going to be able to relax and just be on vacation.

Welcome to Sardinia!

These European elevators are kind of confusing.  The ground floor is 0.  The second floor is the first floor, etc.  I was just happy to see an elevator and not stairs. 

The hotel in which we are staying. 

The view from our balcony.

Day 18:  Oristano and Alghero

We slept in a bit this morning and went down to breakfast in the hotel.  These European hotels far outdo American breakfast.  Lots of fresh breads, cakes, fruit, cereal, meats, cheeses, and of course cappuccino. I think it’s a tie between Switzerland and Italy for the best breads.  

After breakfast, Mati’s dad picked us up.  He has been planning a surprise for Stan and was excited to show us. 

He took us to the fire department headquarters for the area in Oristano.  It was interesting seeing the similarities and differences between fire departments in the US and Italy.  The US (well at least in Gilbert and most of the Valley), everything is very new.  Most departments form committees and make purchases based on their needs and can design the equipment how they want (within standards).  In Italy, every place has the same equipment and does things the same way.  In the US, the firefighters cook their food.  In Italy, there is a cook to prepare food.  The guys in Italy work 12 hour shifts.  In the US, they work at least 24 hours (for the most part).  

Translated:  “Fire Fighters”

This is their dog.  I felt so bad for him, kept in this carrier all day unless he’s working.

They have every kind of vehicle you can imagine.  Boats, jet skis, cars, van, jeep, motorcycles, back hoes, and even a semi truck

They have a cook with cafeteria style food and an espresso bar 

The cafeteria.  They have their own cook

The espresso bar

After our fire station tour, Mati and her dad took us to the town of Oristano to see the village and cathedral.

Inside Cattedralle di Santa Maria Assunta in Oristano.  It was constructed in 1195

The monument to Eleanor of Arborea in Oristano, a national heroine of Sardinia

After exploring Oristano, it was time for lunch, so we were headed to a seaside restaurant.  Just as we were leaving the village of Oristano, a police officer (the polizia) put a hand held stop sign in front of Mati’s car, signaling for her to pull over.  I guess in Italy, the polizia randomly pulls people over and asks for their documents.  I am thankful someone told me to carry my passport with me at all times while in Italy because they will ask and you will get a fine if you don’t have it.  So they took our passports, talked about how we have the same last name (according to Mati) — in Italy the wife keeps her maiden name— and after about five minutes they gave them back and sent us on our way.  It was a little strange because in the US the police will generally not do that unless there is some cause.  I snuck a photo, but it’s a little blurry because I didn’t want them to know I was taking a photo.

Here they are taking photos of our passports

Since we didn’t get fined or arrested, we were free to go to lunch!  There was a little cafe right on the Mediterranean Sea.  

My lunch view.  It was a gorgeous day.

I ordered Caprese.  This one had yellow tomatoes.  The produce here in Italy is so good, especially the tomatoes. 

That afternoon, Mati’s family took us to the city of Alghero, where they have an apartment on the water.  All I can say is, “wow!”  It’s such an amazing place with an amazing view.

I’m trying not to be boring with all the food posts, but let’s face it, Italy has many things going for it, but I think food has to be at the top of the list.  We went to the city center of Alghero for some pizza.  

My pizza.  I don’t even remember what exactly was on it/in it, but it was so good.

Dinner is eaten late in Italy.  One night, reservations were for 9 pm and the next, 10 pm.  When we finished at around midnight, the restaurants were still full of people.  And I must say, I’ve had more wine in the past few days in Italy than I have all year. But the wine here is so good!  I’ve had mostly Sardinian wine and I’m definitely going to have to go on a hunt for it in the US when I return. 

Day 18:  Alghero

We started the day with a lovely breakfast.  I think it was a fairly typical Italian breakfast of bread, croissants, pastries, etc.  And of course the best cappuccino.  Starting the morning with such an amazing view is the best!

Originally, Mati’s family had planned on a boat tour in the waters surrounding Sardinia, however it was going to be a windy and choppy day, so the boat captain canceled. We just headed to the beach instead.  Boating would have been a lot of fun, but beach time in such a beautiful area is also a lovely way to spend the day.  

In Sardinia, companies own part of the beach and they rent out beach chairs.  So, we were able to have some shade, which I prefer to have than the sun, thanks to my pale skin. We just relaxed the day away and I think I may have fallen asleep once or twice.

On the way home, Mati’s dad took us to a place called Nuraghe Palmavera.  It’s an ancient fortress with a surrounding village from around 1800 BC.  We had a personal guide tell us about the construction and history. It’s amazing to me that structures like that are still around for us to see.  We had seen some more from a distance while driving to Alghero.

From a distance

We were able to go inside.  This is looking up.  This is all rock held together simply by how the rocks are placed.  

We ended the evening with an apertivo overlooking the the harbor, then at a restaurant right on the old Alghero city wall, built in the 16th century. 

The harbor in Alghero

There were ancient weapons around the wall.

The wall

I didn’t get a photo of dinner (I had lasagne and Stan had a kind of Ravioli) but we split a traditional Sardinian dessert, a pastry filled with pecorino cheese and topped with honey called Seadas. 

Day 20:  Alghero and back to Arborea

Today was the last day near the sea in Alghero.  We spent the morning shopping, and then had lunch at a place known for its homemade focaccia called Bar Focacceria Milese.  We luckily found a table to sit at right away, but there was a line out the door for a sandwich to go. 

So so yummy.  

We packed up and headed back to Alghero after lunch.  We rested, then that evening, Mati’s family invited us to join them and some extended family for a big Italian family dinner.   It was so much fun.  They were all warm and welcoming.  We didn’t understand much of the conversation, but it was fun watching them interact.  Italians truly speak loudly and use their own sign language to communicate. I didn’t take many photos but here are a few.

We had pulled pork sandwiches.  It was smoked perfectly and it was delicious

Just as the meal was starting. 

Family photo

Mati’s kitty Tigero wanted to join us, but he wasn’t allowed. 

Day 21:  Archeological Sights of Sardinia

Today, was full of history and learning.  We first stopped at a museum that focused on archeological sights on the island of Sardinia, especially on the western side.  It was quite fascinating to learn about what has been uncovered.  Our guide mentioned that every meter on Sardinia has some sort of artifact buried, although most has not been uncovered.  

These urns and stones were from a Sardinian Necropolis, or cemetery.  The urns are believed to be filled with the remains of very young children and babies.  They don’t think they were killed, but had died.  The necropolis was a place they prayed to gods for fertility.  On the stones were engravings of the gods.  The photo in the background shows the excavation and how many pots there were. 

This is a lead ingot.  It was found in the wreckage of a Roman ship that sank sometime in the first century BC. Off of the west coast of Sardinia.  The ingots were stacked neatly and it is believed that the ship sank slowly, possibly from the weight, with each ingot weighing about 73 pounds. Part of the ship’s hull was preserved thanks to the protection of the ingots, but not much else remained, although other artifacts were still intact. If you zoom in, you can see the writing on the ingot, which was the manufacturer of the ingot.

Some of the ingots as well as vessels, which held supplies, such as wine or water.

This is a display called The Giants of Monte Prama.  They are stone statues that were excavated in the 1970s.  28 statues were excavated that depicted archers, boxers, and warriors.  They were found near a grave site and it is believed that these were to mark a family burial site to show that they were brave warriors.  Although it’s interesting that the people in the area are found to be quite small, about 5’ tall and not giants.  

This is a statue of a boxer.  

This is a statue of an archer

This is what the bow would have looked like attached to the statue

This is another statue of a boxer.

After the museum we drove to an archeological sight called Tharros, that is open to the public.This was originally founded in the 8th century BC. It’s located on a peninsula on the west coast of Sardinia, and what’s unique about the area is it is on the peninsula that gets almost no wind, it is protected by the land on the other side, so if you look into the water, you will notice it is perfectly still.  It made a great harbor during the day.  During the Roman Age, there were well defined areas, road systems, water systems, and thermal baths.  It is not known how many people lived here during its time, but it’s estimated that about 10,000 inhabitants were here.  They traded with the Greeks and others from around the Mediterranean Sea.

Eventually the people abandoned the area and moved inland due to threats of foreigners, mostly Arabs, using force and stealing.  

The temple with steps up to the altar.

Enlarge to see the description.

The Romans had thermal baths, cold baths, and even a sauna.  The baths were used to heat and cool.  No water remains in the baths today.

Enlarge to see the description.

These columns are replicas of what it used to look like.  It was the main entrance to the city.  Sitting on top of the column on the left is from the archeological excavation.

These are just pretty ocean views from atop the hill.  The water is unbelievably beautiful. 

This is water from the still side with no wind.  

Dinner was prepared by Mati’s mom.  She made bruschetta because she knew it was one of my favorites.

This pasta was so good. 

Day 21 (part 1):  Cagliari

It was our last day in Sardinia, and Mati’s family took us to the south of the island to a town called Cagliari.  It’s a port town with a lot of tourists, especially from cruise ships.  It has a strong Spanish influence.  We drove around while her dad told us some of the history of the town. Here are some photos from the city of Cagliari:

We had lunch at a very old cafe called Antico Caffe and then headed to the airport.

Our time with Mati had come to an end.  We had such a nice, relaxing time with her kind and generous family and we look forward to seeing them again someday.

Arrivederci Sardegna!